Darchen Goenpa

Darchen Goenpa, a beautiful edifice atop a hill amidst the thick forest under Khamdang gewog in Trashi Yangtse offers a wide range of nature, culture and history like any other. The trek to little known site passes through broadleaved forest of pines and oaks. The journey takes around 30 to 45 minutes uphill walk at relaxed pace from end road point at Kanjur Lhakhang.

Legend has it that Ani Chorten Zangmo, daughter of Tamzhing Choeje Tenzin Chogyal and granddaughter of Terton Pema Lingpa first sanctified and blessed the place as her summer residence. Ani Chorten Zangmo excessively traveled between Darchen and Shakshing and later in 16^th century she built a temple at Darchen. According to the oral narratives by caretaker of the temple, the name ‘Dhar’ is derived from a rock resembling prayer flags and ‘Chen’ meaning leopard.

What makes the site more profound is the presence of numerous sacred objects either in cluster or scattered around the Lhakhang. Even to this day pilgrims could see foot imprints of Ani Chorten Zangmo and Darchen Kasung, imprints of Dakini’s pudendum, feast offering bowl, white conch (male & female), Zambala (male and female), Zhithro lhatsho, Guru’s Zhugthri and Guru Druphu where self-arisen dragon is visible on the rock. The cave also holds many imprints and treasures of various religious figures. People of Tongzhang are affluent in livestock farming because of revered object; Zambala in Darchen facing towards Tongzhang. Locals visit the place to receive blessing from the object particularly to prosper in livestock farming.

Just few kilometers from the temple, there are two lakes shrugged in thick broadleaved forest. One is Yabtsho Karpo, which is said have shifted to Gangkhar village under Trashi Yangtse gewog owing to ill treatment by people and animals. Not so long after its disappearance, the lake has however returned to Darchen. Yumtsho Marmo is located below the temple aside the pathway towards Darchen. It is a beautiful spectacle of both the lakes that rests in dense forest, pristine and calm yet it appears so dreadful.

 

Shakshing Lhakhang

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The wondrous Shakshing Lhakhang (monastery) churns gruesome folklores with mystical tales. The place had its initial name as Samdrup Choling located on paradisiacal valley above Tsenkharla in Trashi Yangtse. The Lhakhang is now accessible by a farm road from Tsenkharla and it takes approximately about one hour to reach the site. The temple owes its existence to Ani (nun) Chorten Zangmo, the great granddaughter of 15^th century Terton (treasure discoverer) Pema Lingpa.

Ani Chorten Zangmo had three residential places viz. Toe (upper) Lhari in Tibet, Bar (middle) Kisa Gomai in Bumthang and Wog (lower) Shakshing in eastern Bhutan. According to the source, she eloped from Tamshing in Bumthang to escape the matrimonial pressure from Choekhor Deb Kuenthub. Before trooping towards her destined place, her grandfather handed over a precious white conch with the advice to blow it to decide her settlement and flourish Peling tradition. She marched towards east crossing Aja (Place with 100 Tibetan letter A), Balam and finally reached at a peak. Upon blowing the conch, it produced soothing sound at a specific peak and later named the peak as Drametse (a peak without enemies). She decided to settle there and built a small monastery with support from local people. Later, she spent her life into diligent meditative practices and spiritual activities.  After residing certain years at Drametse, ani Chorten Zangmo visited her two residents and then came back to at present Shakshing in Trashi Yangtse. Her visit to Shakshing was of paramount blessing for she vanquished evil spirits and subsequently built a small temple which was then named as Samdrup Choling. As no religious figure turned dharma wheel in and around the place except ani Chorten Zangmo. She assumed as head abbot in flourishing Buddhism and blessed the place with many treasures such as oven, holy water, saddle, Guru’s religious hat, foot and hand print, and Buddhist scriptures (Sutra). After having been contributed a lot for the welfare of all sentient beings, at the age of 70, Ani Chorten Zangmo took her final breath and attained nirvana. Her dead body is believed to have taken back and preserved at Drametse. Right after her demise, followers could not give good pastoral care to her properties including temples and nearly fell into complete ruins.

The sacred site remained deserted until lama Ugyen Rangdrol from Kurtoe Nyalam Dung visited Shakshing and he strongly felt the need to restore the monastery.  He immediately sought permission from Jangbu Drungpa (Sub-district administrator of Jangphutse) to restore both the ruined temples of Shakshing and Darchen. Shakshing was believed to be head seat for Ani Chorten Zangmo as winter residence and Darchen as summer residence. The move to restore both the temples (Shakshing and Darchen) did not take much time and were brought back to life that eventually helped to flourish Dharma once again. Lama Ugyen Rangdrol named the site as Shaek-zhing, Sheak means ‘arrived’ and Zhing means ‘Buddhahood’. The name is derived as a tribute to Ani Chorten Zangmo and the legacies left before her last breath at Shakshing. Similarly, lama conducted numerous Dharma activities and continued flourishing Buddha dharma throughout nearby places by giving empowerments, religious talk and blessings. The monastery at present day is under the custodian of Koenyer (caretaker) which has been passed down to subsequent heirs and each custodian contributed in upholding the Dharma and maintaining the fame of monastery. The monastery underwent several renovations and successive custodians undertook structural changes over the time. The relics inside the monastery include a statue of Buddha, Guru Rinpoche, Chenrizi (Compassionate Buddha), Dolma (Tara), Tsepamaed (Long life Buddha) and a set of Terton Ratna Lingpa’s vase. 

To spread Dharma, a new temple was constructed above Shakshing temple that would take 20 minutes by foot from Shakshing Lhakhang and the temple houses huge volumes of old Buddhist scriptures which was brought from Lhasa Darthang, Tibet. Hence, the temple was named as ‘Kanjur’ Lhakhang and lama’s name as Kanjur lama. Currently, the temple is under the care of lama Kelden, heartson of lama Ugyen Rangdrol who is said to have accomplished great Buddhist practices.

Kharchen Dra and Nye Pelritse

 Kharchen Dra

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A small painting-like place is Guru’s hidden land, supremely located overlooking faces to the hamlet known as Tsaling under Bumdeling gewog in Trashi Yangtse. The village is named after the legend according to which a giant named Sang Gagpa Samdrup, whom upon the arrival from Tibet with a bagful of salt had to share his salt to the people of that nameless village. Surprisingly, he had distributed single salt rock to whole province and thus the name Tsaling, which literally means ‘Salt rock distributed to the people of boundless community’ (Tsa-Salt and Ling-boundless community). The village at present is accessible to motorable road and takes about 30 minutes-drive from Trashi Yangtse town.

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To reach Kharchen Dra (cliff), one must travel from Tsaling by foot, pilgrims can encounter a gateway towards Kharchen Dra. The site is instantly recognizable by its entirely unique with precious jewels of concealed treasures. In the most detailed account, the paradisal valley is concealed with treasures in mountains or narrow gorge such as cremation ground Silwatsel, miraculously originated Buddhist drum and white conch, Guru’s meditation cave, shrine of Zambala (God of wealth), hidden treasure of salt, Roo (corpse) Ngedrupchen, Dorji Phagmo’s (Vajravarani in Skt.) cave, remains of scattered brain of vanquished demon, Matamuruta, Guru’s footprint, raven, foot impression of Zambhala, tiger-faced mermaid and longevity vase. Behind Kharchen Dra, towards left lies a shrine which is believed to be the place where deity Hum Kala and his wife resided.  Inside the cave is a secret passage where pilgrims can receive blessings and cleanse sins accumulated by crawling through secret passageway in the cave. Bhutanese strongly believe that crawling through a narrow chamber leave one’s sins behind without an iota of doubt and offers healing experience.

 Nye Pelritse

Set in beautiful ridges, it is Pelritse, an abandoned mute site otherwise is deeply associated to Guru Padmasambhava. The journey towards Pelritse takes two days from Rigsum Goenpa and unlike other sites, Pelritse provides indescribable view from the hill overlooking the base of valley. Rabselphu is a common place for pilgrims to halt night and then the next day, people reach to the site after two day-long uphill climb. Remoteness of the site and treacherous journey along the inhospitable terrains had less attracted the visitors since few decades.  Hidden deep in the folds of snow laden mountains, Pelritse never fails to marvel its existence to visitors resounding every untouched history and unparalleled beauty of fascinating landmarks. Distinct from sightseeing trek, visit to the site itself help desolates regain qualms of conscience and find solace albeit worldly life. A must visit site imbued with significance and power set foot onto the area, allowing pilgrims to receive blessings and attain salvation. From numerous rocks, lakes and cliffs at the site, the trinity lakes, peaks and statues like figure gave birth to the name, Rigsum Goenpa.

Main treasures endowed with spiritual blessings include sacred lakes of Phurpa (Kila in Sanskrit), Phagmo (Chakrasamvara in Skt.), Tsepame (Buddha of countless life), White Dolma (Tara in Skt.), Blue Dolma (Tara in Skt.) and Goenpo Maning (Mahaksla in Skt.). Treasures are in sheer mysticism extend across a whole valley located inside dense forest and the place is the abode of treasures such as Zangdopelri (copper plated mountain), sacred site of twenty-one Dolma (Tara in Skt.) and Guru’s Lhakhang (Temple). The site is also reputed containing the shrines of Namthoesaey (the god of wealth), Tsheringma (Five sisters of long life), and the shrine of Rigsum Goenpa’s deity, Goenyen Phaenbu. Worshipped by all pilgrims, holy place is particularly popular as it holds reputed Neys especially overhanging cliffs of Nima and Dawa (twin cliff).

The holy site may not be like paradise, but it is very close to be called as last Shangri-La, just as the place is powerful and conducive for spiritual development. Spiritual personnel seeking self-transformation, human wellbeing, and happiness is advisable to visit only in sixth and seventh month of lunar calendar considering the difficulties due to harsh forces of heavy snow coverage.

 

Nye Pemaling

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 Pemaling Nye (sacred site) is the most revered holy site blessed by Guru Padmasambhava in 8^th century. The multi-directionally site besets Pelriphu in east (Part of Singye dzong in Lhuntse), Rinchenling in south (Rigsum goenpa in Bumdeling), Pemaling in the west and Karmaling in the north. 

Pemaling Nye is further categorized into four directions viz. east Samtenling, west Pemaling, south Ugyenling and north Karmaling. It is a three day trek from end of the motorable road at Pamadung, Bumdeling following the banks of Kholongchu, crisscrossing many streams and pilgrims must spend two nights along the way. Pilgrims halt night at Lawog, a herding place for nomads and reach Shingphel the next day. The sacred objects can be spotted along the way from Shingphel till Pemaling. Singphel serves as the summer residence to nomads of Tarphel and it is the gateway towards sacred spot, the hidden bowl of Pemaling.

Guru Rinpoche spent his days meditating in caves at Pemaling areas and have had undergone secret practices concealing numerous treasures. Footprints, finger prints, and secret religious objects of iconic religious figures of past are commonly found treasures in the region. There are many treasures and relics in the area, although all are concealed  that include treasure of Tsepame (Buddha of countless life), Guru’s treasure box, Guru’s hat, his walking staff and throne, lake of goddess Tara, Body imprints of Goddess Tara, Elephant’s head, feast offering bowl of Dakini, tortoise, gateway towards future sacred sites, face of Yamraj (Lord of death), thumb impression of Guru, feast offering place of great merchant Norbu Zangpo, hand impression of Dakinis, foot imprints of Guru, skull, cremation ground, passage way for religious text (Sutra), altar, Phurpa (religious instrument), hidden treasure of Pemaling temple, 108 stupas, longevity vase,  white conch, shrine of compassionate Buddha (Chenrize), holy water of Dorji Phamo (Vajravahari in Skt.), and many more.

Further, the site endowed  with mysterious and inexplicable features of Guru Rinpoche offers overarching picturesque over the lakes and mountains. The spot also provides exquisite view with masses of mighty snowcapped mountains endowed with spectacular meadow enclosed by numerous lakes. 

It is located at around 4500 m elevation covered by lush alpine vegetation and many medicinal herbs are spotted there. According to elderly, there are numerous lakes sanctified by Guru Rinpoche and believed to be under the guidance of sacred Lhatsho (divine lake). Neyig (Letter about sacred site) revealed that among many Lhatshos, Pel Dechog Khorlo Lhatsho (Charasamvara in Skt.) swiftly drains to an outlet of Kholong Chhu and thus, derived its name as Khorlo Chhu. However, the name lost its original tune and people subsequently misinterpreted as Kholong Chhu.

The site over the years turned blind spot to many people across the country. Visitors must depend on local people as porter due to poor condition of walking trails, inadequate shelter, and remoteness of the site resulted to attract less visitors. Those challenges have now become minimal since Trashi Yangtse Dzongkhag spearheaded enough effort to make the trek adventurous as well as easily accessible. Monks from different levels of society visit the site during autumn season undergo short retreat and few pilgrims also visit the site. In summation, the site is no different to pure land of Guru Padmasambhava’s Glorious Copper-Coloured Mountain and visitors stepping their foot /feet on such highly blessed site is said to accumulate umpteen amount of merits. 

Education at a glance in Bhutan: Education during the pandemic

 

The last 60 years have seen tremendous breakthrough in provision of education to all in Bhutan. Bhutan faced huge challenge when the country experienced first COVID-19 case on 5^th March 2020. Thereafter Bhutan started experiencing plethora of uneven crisis since schools, entertainment and business centers remained shut. Education system and student’s learning is likewise upended with no end in sight by the unrelenting global pandemic. The unending threat has necessitated education ministry to ramp up capacity to address teaching learning disruption caused by the pandemic. Online education in Bhutanese schools has remained almost, a Black Box over the decades until the implementation of Moodle-based online learning system known as Virtual Learning Environment (VLE) in 2011 by colleges under Royal University of Bhutan. But it went on striking the blind spot of education system as education in Bhutan was yet to experience the long unwalked journey towards digitalized teaching and learning. It was not up until 2020 when the whole educational ecosystem was disrupted by the global pandemic. Closure of schools has not only allowed digital transformation but infusion of new teaching-learning modality into Bhutanese education system. As brick and mortar classrooms have shifted to virtual classroom, online teaching in Bhutan has gone far from emergency novelty to a ubiquitous teaching learning tools right from day one of the school closure.

Education during the school closure

Had Bhutan not experienced the pandemic, new chapter in education system would not have unfurled. Indeed it provided green signal and came as a wakeup call particularly to education fraternity to rethink education in more than one way. Accordingly, education ministry in collaboration with relevant stakeholders started spearheading number of preparations and tangible initiatives in the short time available. Activities include Education in Emergency, a comprehensive guideline for schools and teachers to maintain the continuum of education in new conditions. Gradually, a group of teachers voluntarily started broadcasting video lesson through BBS channel 2 popularly known as Bhutan E-Learning Project. Hence E-learning and online teaching has increasingly become revolutionary system in schools across the country. Teachers on the other hand found niche to conduct mobile teaching and home visit ensuring that every students get equal opportunity to education during the pandemic. The Ministry of Education developed Self-Instructional Material (SIM) and distributed to students who do not have access to television, smart phone and internet.

New normal education

Schools across the nation geared up for new normal education, ensuring all precautionary measures in school campus to stop the spread of COVID-19. Classes X and XII students rejoined school on 1^st July but then the normal flow was once again interrupted due to nationwide lockdown. However, schools in Bhutan reopened on 14^th September and a week later, classes IX and XI resumed face-to-face teaching. Classes IX to XII started applying prioritized curriculum, a well sort out curriculum comprising key knowledge, skills, strategies, methods and procedures. Adapted curriculum, theme-based curriculum was applied for classes PP to VIII. In addition to the provision of curriculum book, schools with Special Educational Needs program and special schools received both prioritized and adapted curriculum to support learning for students with disability. Although schools at present are on full swing with face-to-face teaching and classes PP-VIII undergo blended teaching and learning, the certainty of all those measures are not sustainable in long-term.

Academic reforms

End-of-year examinations for classes PP-VIII have been cancelled and their transition will depend on the assessment records maintained by teachers so far. The most important adjustment, is that the academic year for classes IX-XII is extended till the end of March, 2021.

 

Disclaimer: The information shared and views expressed by the author is intended to provide general understanding on the education during the pandemic.

Omba Nye: Taktsang of East

The great lotus born is an unforgettable figure who propagated and founded Tibetan Buddhism; Vajrayana Buddhism in Bhutan. Guru Rinpoche’s deeds are vastly profound that left many lasting impressions. One is during 8^th century, when King Sindhu Raja of Bumthang invited Guru Rinpoche to visit Bhutan. Buddhism thereafter flourished to every far flung places of the country and the blessed places are considered to be the manifestation of Guru's body, speech, mind, wisdom and secret activities.

Omba is one untouched sacred site of Guru Rinpoche from many holy sites  because of the district’s remoteness. It is located towards northern Trashi Yangtse and takes two hours uphill climb from Kheni or there is another two hours route from Tsangphuchen. The mansion is magnificently pinnacled on rocky cliff giving similar view and uncanny resemblance to Paro Taktsang and people often call it as Taktsang of east. Omba Nye derives its name from letter ‘Om’, an inscription on holy stone surface before getting into the main holy site and believed to have more than hundred inscriptions on the same rock. Omba was initially discovered as sacred holy site of Guru Padmasambhava by Guru Choewang from Kurtoe Ngalamdung. Although no existing details are prevalent about the sacred site, local people believe that Guru Rinpoche blessed the site after his visit to Gomphu Kora and Gongza. Dating back to the oral history, Omba Nye is the epithet of body, Aja in Mongar for speech, Hungrel in Paro Hung for mind, Khenpajong for wisdom and Singye Dzong for secret activities. History has it say that Guru Rinpoche visited the site as per the prophecy and merely following his visions to subdue a snake demon, Phurba Tashi who then said to have tormented community of people. With all his wits, Guru furiously rode on a pony and subdued a demon. Guru Rinpoche meditated for two months in a cave at Om Bha and then headed to Aja Nye in Mongar. At the site, Guru Rinpoche concealed many treasures with the hope to flourish his doctrine and benefit future people. Omba is punctuated with treasures viz. imprints of stupas on the rocks, Guru’s treasure box, Rinchen Terzoed (sacred holy book), Guru’s walking staff and many more Neys are said to have remained unexplored because of scant information and also due to misplacement of Ney Yig. Annually, sacred site attracts hundreds of pilgrims and tourists. People visiting the site have profound advantage to cleanse sins and accumulate countless merits.

Ney Chen Rigsum Goenpa

 

 View of Rigsum Goenpa (PC: Tashi Yangtse Bumdelling Rigsum Gonpa Goenzin Dratshang)

Rigsum monastery is picturesquely perched on an idyllic peak at an altitude of about 2,500-3,000 meters above sea level. Journey towards monastery takes about three hours along the mountain trail from Dungzam, nearest Bumdeling road point. The trail is broad, trekkers would need to cross many creeks, and encounter slender bamboo shoot along the way towards monastery. The monastery is revered for its exquisite murals of Zaedja Pagsam Thishing (history of 108 lord Buddha) which is preserved at Lhakhang Wogma (lower monastery), artifacts and sacred history. The views from the monastery is spectacular whereby one would see other Himalayan mountain ranges afar.

According to the written history by lam Kezang Chhophel (former principal of Rigney Institute, Trashi Yangtse), the monastery was initially built by lama Tshering Gyamtsho in 18^th century. Lama Tshering Gyamtsho was close disciple of 9^th Je Khenpo Sacha Rinchhen who was prophesized to explore sacred site of Guru Rinpoche. He spent three months meditating in a cave where now Rinchengang Lhakhang exists near Yangtse Dzong. In his vision, Yongla deities and Ge-Nyen advised Lama to venture to Pemaling. He arrived at Pemaling located at northeast Trashi Yangtse and there his eye was caught by the odd figures near the cave at present Rigsum Goenpa. The place had trinity imprints so-called Rigsum Goenpo which means ‘Lords of the Three Families’ and refers to enlightened deity of Manjushri, Vajrapani and Avalokiteshvara. Lama coaxed the guardian deity of the cave, Goenyen Phaenbu and later built a small hermitage.

Rigsum Goenpa Lama

The monastery was succeeded by his nephew, lama Jangchub Gyeltshen soon after the death of Lama Tshering Gyamtsho. Lama Jangchub Gyeltshen renovated and extended the Lhakhang Wogma (lower monastery) with mural paintings all over the wall. He played vital role in taking care of the monastery and spreading Buddhism until his last breath. The monastery was then under the charge of Lama Ngawang Loday, nephew of Lama Jangchub Gyeltshen. Later lama Ngawang Loday was ordained as 3^rd abbot of Rigsum goenpa by His Holiness Yonten Thaye, the 13^th Je Khenpo who was en route to Tsari Rongkor (mountain pilgrimage) in Arunachal Pradesh, India. Lama further extended the monastery, brought the Jowo Shakya Muni (Buddha as prince) statues from Punakha Dzong, installed sacred artifacts, hundred volumes of Buddhist scriptures and eight enlightening stupas of lord Buddha. Jowo statue is the replica of the one in Lhasa, in Tibet sculptured by renowned Nepalese sculptor named Lhazo Pentsa.  It is said that the 5^th abbot, Lama Shacha Gyalpo witnessed the statue speak and thereafter originated its name as Jowo Sung-Joen (Jowo that spoke). The monastery was renovated in 2004 affiliated by Royal Government of Bhutan and instituted traditional religious school catering about 50 monks.