Shakshing Lhakhang

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The wondrous Shakshing Lhakhang (monastery) churns gruesome folklores with mystical tales. The place had its initial name as Samdrup Choling located on paradisiacal valley above Tsenkharla in Trashi Yangtse. The Lhakhang is now accessible by a farm road from Tsenkharla and it takes approximately about one hour to reach the site. The temple owes its existence to Ani (nun) Chorten Zangmo, the great granddaughter of 15^th century Terton (treasure discoverer) Pema Lingpa.

Ani Chorten Zangmo had three residential places viz. Toe (upper) Lhari in Tibet, Bar (middle) Kisa Gomai in Bumthang and Wog (lower) Shakshing in eastern Bhutan. According to the source, she eloped from Tamshing in Bumthang to escape the matrimonial pressure from Choekhor Deb Kuenthub. Before trooping towards her destined place, her grandfather handed over a precious white conch with the advice to blow it to decide her settlement and flourish Peling tradition. She marched towards east crossing Aja (Place with 100 Tibetan letter A), Balam and finally reached at a peak. Upon blowing the conch, it produced soothing sound at a specific peak and later named the peak as Drametse (a peak without enemies). She decided to settle there and built a small monastery with support from local people. Later, she spent her life into diligent meditative practices and spiritual activities.  After residing certain years at Drametse, ani Chorten Zangmo visited her two residents and then came back to at present Shakshing in Trashi Yangtse. Her visit to Shakshing was of paramount blessing for she vanquished evil spirits and subsequently built a small temple which was then named as Samdrup Choling. As no religious figure turned dharma wheel in and around the place except ani Chorten Zangmo. She assumed as head abbot in flourishing Buddhism and blessed the place with many treasures such as oven, holy water, saddle, Guru’s religious hat, foot and hand print, and Buddhist scriptures (Sutra). After having been contributed a lot for the welfare of all sentient beings, at the age of 70, Ani Chorten Zangmo took her final breath and attained nirvana. Her dead body is believed to have taken back and preserved at Drametse. Right after her demise, followers could not give good pastoral care to her properties including temples and nearly fell into complete ruins.

The sacred site remained deserted until lama Ugyen Rangdrol from Kurtoe Nyalam Dung visited Shakshing and he strongly felt the need to restore the monastery.  He immediately sought permission from Jangbu Drungpa (Sub-district administrator of Jangphutse) to restore both the ruined temples of Shakshing and Darchen. Shakshing was believed to be head seat for Ani Chorten Zangmo as winter residence and Darchen as summer residence. The move to restore both the temples (Shakshing and Darchen) did not take much time and were brought back to life that eventually helped to flourish Dharma once again. Lama Ugyen Rangdrol named the site as Shaek-zhing, Sheak means ‘arrived’ and Zhing means ‘Buddhahood’. The name is derived as a tribute to Ani Chorten Zangmo and the legacies left before her last breath at Shakshing. Similarly, lama conducted numerous Dharma activities and continued flourishing Buddha dharma throughout nearby places by giving empowerments, religious talk and blessings. The monastery at present day is under the custodian of Koenyer (caretaker) which has been passed down to subsequent heirs and each custodian contributed in upholding the Dharma and maintaining the fame of monastery. The monastery underwent several renovations and successive custodians undertook structural changes over the time. The relics inside the monastery include a statue of Buddha, Guru Rinpoche, Chenrizi (Compassionate Buddha), Dolma (Tara), Tsepamaed (Long life Buddha) and a set of Terton Ratna Lingpa’s vase. 

To spread Dharma, a new temple was constructed above Shakshing temple that would take 20 minutes by foot from Shakshing Lhakhang and the temple houses huge volumes of old Buddhist scriptures which was brought from Lhasa Darthang, Tibet. Hence, the temple was named as ‘Kanjur’ Lhakhang and lama’s name as Kanjur lama. Currently, the temple is under the care of lama Kelden, heartson of lama Ugyen Rangdrol who is said to have accomplished great Buddhist practices.

Kharchen Dra and Nye Pelritse

 Kharchen Dra

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A small painting-like place is Guru’s hidden land, supremely located overlooking faces to the hamlet known as Tsaling under Bumdeling gewog in Trashi Yangtse. The village is named after the legend according to which a giant named Sang Gagpa Samdrup, whom upon the arrival from Tibet with a bagful of salt had to share his salt to the people of that nameless village. Surprisingly, he had distributed single salt rock to whole province and thus the name Tsaling, which literally means ‘Salt rock distributed to the people of boundless community’ (Tsa-Salt and Ling-boundless community). The village at present is accessible to motorable road and takes about 30 minutes-drive from Trashi Yangtse town.

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To reach Kharchen Dra (cliff), one must travel from Tsaling by foot, pilgrims can encounter a gateway towards Kharchen Dra. The site is instantly recognizable by its entirely unique with precious jewels of concealed treasures. In the most detailed account, the paradisal valley is concealed with treasures in mountains or narrow gorge such as cremation ground Silwatsel, miraculously originated Buddhist drum and white conch, Guru’s meditation cave, shrine of Zambala (God of wealth), hidden treasure of salt, Roo (corpse) Ngedrupchen, Dorji Phagmo’s (Vajravarani in Skt.) cave, remains of scattered brain of vanquished demon, Matamuruta, Guru’s footprint, raven, foot impression of Zambhala, tiger-faced mermaid and longevity vase. Behind Kharchen Dra, towards left lies a shrine which is believed to be the place where deity Hum Kala and his wife resided.  Inside the cave is a secret passage where pilgrims can receive blessings and cleanse sins accumulated by crawling through secret passageway in the cave. Bhutanese strongly believe that crawling through a narrow chamber leave one’s sins behind without an iota of doubt and offers healing experience.

 Nye Pelritse

Set in beautiful ridges, it is Pelritse, an abandoned mute site otherwise is deeply associated to Guru Padmasambhava. The journey towards Pelritse takes two days from Rigsum Goenpa and unlike other sites, Pelritse provides indescribable view from the hill overlooking the base of valley. Rabselphu is a common place for pilgrims to halt night and then the next day, people reach to the site after two day-long uphill climb. Remoteness of the site and treacherous journey along the inhospitable terrains had less attracted the visitors since few decades.  Hidden deep in the folds of snow laden mountains, Pelritse never fails to marvel its existence to visitors resounding every untouched history and unparalleled beauty of fascinating landmarks. Distinct from sightseeing trek, visit to the site itself help desolates regain qualms of conscience and find solace albeit worldly life. A must visit site imbued with significance and power set foot onto the area, allowing pilgrims to receive blessings and attain salvation. From numerous rocks, lakes and cliffs at the site, the trinity lakes, peaks and statues like figure gave birth to the name, Rigsum Goenpa.

Main treasures endowed with spiritual blessings include sacred lakes of Phurpa (Kila in Sanskrit), Phagmo (Chakrasamvara in Skt.), Tsepame (Buddha of countless life), White Dolma (Tara in Skt.), Blue Dolma (Tara in Skt.) and Goenpo Maning (Mahaksla in Skt.). Treasures are in sheer mysticism extend across a whole valley located inside dense forest and the place is the abode of treasures such as Zangdopelri (copper plated mountain), sacred site of twenty-one Dolma (Tara in Skt.) and Guru’s Lhakhang (Temple). The site is also reputed containing the shrines of Namthoesaey (the god of wealth), Tsheringma (Five sisters of long life), and the shrine of Rigsum Goenpa’s deity, Goenyen Phaenbu. Worshipped by all pilgrims, holy place is particularly popular as it holds reputed Neys especially overhanging cliffs of Nima and Dawa (twin cliff).

The holy site may not be like paradise, but it is very close to be called as last Shangri-La, just as the place is powerful and conducive for spiritual development. Spiritual personnel seeking self-transformation, human wellbeing, and happiness is advisable to visit only in sixth and seventh month of lunar calendar considering the difficulties due to harsh forces of heavy snow coverage.