Dongdi or Dongter Dzong

 Old Trashi Yangtse Fortress

Dongdi Dzong (P.C. DrukTrails)

Dongdi fortress majestically lies on spur which at its foot flows Dongdichu from the right and Kholongchu from the left. It roughly takes 4 km drive from Yangtse town and at present the fortress serve as chief abode for Trashi Yangtse monastic body. Name of the Dzong is attributable to retaliation made by the people of Donglum against Tibetan armies. Historical account says that the Dzong was built by Gonkar Gyal, grandson of prince Tsangma in 9^th century. Gonkar Gyal was invited by people of Donglum to reign their area since the region was in dire need of Hercules ruler. Ever since his reign, the area became harmonious and powerful for subjects in the area thrashed out every external pursuer. Many people underwent insurmountable pains because of constant invasions by Tibetan warriors. The unabated war and the weak defense by people residing towards north Donglum caused citizens to flee the place. Therefore, Dongdi Dzong has remained abandoned and became ruins. However, Terton Pema Lingpa came across the ruins during one of his visits in 15^th century and averted the ill-fate of the ruined fortress. He immediately rebuilt the fortress on the same site where ruined Dongdi Dzong stood and thereupon renamed as Trashi Yangtse which means ‘It has sufficient space on steep terrain’.  Nonetheless, other historical source has another meaning for Trashi Yangtse which means ‘The fortress of auspicious fortune’.

Little has been written about the Dzong. An oral narrative by Koenyer (caretaker) has it that in 17^th century, king Jidra surrendered Dzong to Trongsa Poenlop Chogyal Minjur Tempa who was in battle to unite six eastern regions of Bhutan. Renovation work of old Trashi Yangtse Dzong commenced in 2001 funded by government and His Holiness 70^th Je Khenpo, Trulku Jigme Choeda (Chief abode of Bhutan’s monastic body) conducted sacred rabney (consecration) ceremony on 23^rd March 2005. Fortress is refurbished with new Kuenra (hall for religious activities) garlanded by Kuten and Sungten (sacred images and scriptures), two Shapkors (monk’s residential quarter) and Nepoi Phodrang (Shrine for local deity).

Three-storied Dongdi Dzong is the chief asset to Trashi Yangtse for it houses many revered nangtens (Inner relic). A statue of Chenrize (Avalokiteshvara-Buddha of compassion) and hundred volumes of gold printed Kanjur and Sungten (Sacred scriptures of Buddha) keep the reverence alight. According to written text by Lam Kezang, former principal of Trashi Yangtse Institute for Zorig Chusum narrated that a man from Trashigang Udzorong had accidentally killed one subject of Yangtse chieftain and for the ill-action he demanded compensation from Udzorong chieftain.   They could not pay compensation instead Yangtse chieftain demanded one hundred eleven volumes of Kanjur. However, only one hundred volumes of scriptures were handed over to Yangtse chieftain which is kept in Dzong.  The Dzong has Terphur (Treasure dagger), and Dam Lung (Subduing boulder) which can be seen on the walls of main entrance in ground floor towards the Dzong. Terton Pema Lingpa subdued evil by throwing a boulder at the evil in Dongdichu who was said to be harming people.

 

Tale of Chugchizhey

The Dzong consists of a Chugchizhey (Avalokiteshvara) statue that abound spectacular tales about its existence. While tale narrated through oral account states that once an old woman lived solitary life in Shali Teng, towards north of Dzong. She spent her days running errands and carrying out household chores. One day, she went out to fetch firewood from nearby forest. While she was collecting firewood, she heard peculiar whispers resonating from afar beside big cypress tree. She did not give much heed thinking some perverts were doing pranks onto her. But she heard the same whispers on her way back to home. She felt strange and haunted for she was alone walking in woods. The woman whatsoever followed the direction of whispers to have closer look. She discovered the statue of Chugchizhey (eleven faced compassionate Buddha), Jampelyang (Wisdom Buddha) and a stupa ditched in logs. The discovery haunted her more and inquisitiveness had her inquire to herself about who could have kept the assets in woods. To her surprise Chugchizhey replied, “None brought us here, we all flew from Lhasa.” Old lady became speechless upon hearing unanticipated response from the statue. Her pious nature gathered all her guts to bring statues and stupa to her home and had taken care of those items. Gradually she became rich and the suspiciousness about her escalating wealth spread all over the village. One day, a landlord peeked through her window and saw the statues. He immediately snatched the statues and the woman immediately reported about it to the king. King ordered woman to hand-over the statues and stupa to the Dzong. Thereafter people well protected the sacred relic that resulted people to lead peaceful life and wealth grew as never before. Today a statue of Chenrize is stored in Dongdi Dzong, a statue of Jampelyang is in Kurtoe Minje and a stupa is at Tarphel in Trashi Yangtse.

Not only had the statue gained its popularity in Trashi Yangtse but famed throughout Bhutan. Upon learning the story of statue, Bumthang Dzongpoen (Chieftain) visited Trashi Yangtse and snatched the statues to be brought in his region. No sooner did he bring statues in his region then the gruesome weather attacked whole region, chieftain was bedridden and stuffs on altar were scattered all over. To ward off evils, the chieftain sought help from Zhabdrung and inquired about the main cause of such bewildering omen. Zhabdrung said unrecognizable new assets to have secretly kept on altar thereof chieftain confessed whole story about the statues. The chieftain instantly returned it to Dongdi Dzong and was consequently freed from all bad omens.

Years later, an earthquake severely attacked the Dzong and statue went missing. Locals started searching the lost statue and finally found in a cave whereby statue spoke, “I am fine here in the cave”. Locals took back and stored it in the fortress as main relic after the completion of renovation since then.

About Trashi Yangtse

 

PC: Rinchey Rinchey (Facebook)

Trashi Yangtse, the land of auspicious fortune perches on the hillock terrain at the Eastern end of Bhutan. The district is adjacent to Arunachal Pradesh (Tawang: Northeast state of India) reverently blessed by Guru Rinpoche and Tibetan prince, Lhasey Tsangma. Trashi Yangtse which was then under Trashigang district officially established as new district in 1992 and considered as one of the latest districts in Bhutan. The Dzongkhag is elevated ranging from 1750-1880m above sea level and the sub-tropical vegetation extends 1,437sq km. Trashi Yangtse is situated amidst the pronged mountains demarcating the border towards Northeast of neighboring country India (Tawang) and shares international border with China to the north. The district comprises of eight Gewogs (an administrative division) viz. Bumdeling, Jamkhar, Khamdang, Ramjar, Toedtso, Tomijangsa, Yallang, Yangtse and entail blends of dynamic cultural practices. It is 2hours drive from Trashigang Chazam (Iron Bridge) where any fanatic travelers would enjoy the ecstatic vistas en route to Trashi Yangtse.

Unlike any other districts, Trashi Yangtse celebrates unprecedented uniqueness with several symbols adopted. Such divine act is all with the hope to connect and maintain fading cultures otherwise. Identifying unique symbol indirectly teach people to transmit cultures and live in harmony. Preserving religious heritage and traditions for instance, to develop a sense of oneness is a cornerstone of the Bhutanese identity. The song of Pel La Ya Mo So (Dzongkhag song), Urka-Bangla (Dzongkhag vegetable), sweet aroma of Daphne (Dzongkhag flower), Dapa making (Dzongkhag craft), occasions blended with Nakpa (Dzongkhag drink), serving Datshe Paa (Dzongkhag food), verdant forest overlaid by Rhododendron (Dzongkhag tree), Chakar (Dzongkhag mammal) hurling from branches in a sanctuary intertwined with multi-colored Ludlow’s Bhutan Glory (Dzongkhag butterfly) makes the hamlet lurch into life.

The district is not only renowned by Chorten Kora, Gomphu Kora, Zorig Chugsum (An institute for thirteen Arts and Crafts), Khulongchu, woodworking (Bowl production from wood burls), paper making, Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary, and black-necked cranes. There are lot more to explore banquet of beautiful landscapes, unique cultures, monasteries, and Ludlow’s Bhutan Glory (Swallowtail Ludlow-Bhutan’s national butterfly). Affluent in flora and fauna, district is known to harbor rare plants and animals. Fertile soil and favorable climatic condition scaffolds residents of Trashi Yangtse to grow different kinds of cereals and fruits. Growth of unique maize species called Yangtsepa and Yagtsepa chilly (Urka Bangla) has skyrocketed the demand from other parts of the country.

The district has mixed inhabitants ethnically diversified which includes Yangtseps, indigenous inhabitants (Bumdeling, Toedtso and Yangtse Geowg, people speak Dzala kha), Tsanglas from Tawang (Ramjar, Yallang, Jamkhar and Khamdang Gewog, residents speak Sharchopkha), Khengpas from Zhemgang (Part of Tomijangsa gewog, residents speak Khengpakha), Kurtoeps from Lhuentse (Tomijangsa residents speak Chocha ngacha kha).

Spring and the autumn are the seasons of festivities as local tsechu (Tenth day) and delightful social congregations take place throughout the district. The event is held in monasteries and temples displaying mask dances varied with profound significance. Tsechu is a moment for Bhutanese people to pay gratitude to Guru Rinpoche for he flourished Buddhism and first conducted tsechu in Bumthang by presenting dances of eight manifestations of Guru. More importantly tsechu is meant to offer earnest prayers for good deeds to bless the people and the community. However, with changing time, people deviated the essence of tsechu and think of it as fun and games.  During the festival people fancy their wardrobe, dine delicious food items and flaunt all their wealth. Young generations on other line hunt for an opportune to be with their loved ones and have memorable time. In addition, tourists from different countries throng at the event to enjoy the wilderness experience.

History of Trashi Yangtse

 

Chorten Kora

In the whole of Bhutan, Trashi Yangtse is a highly blessed district by many legends and profound Buddhist abbots such as Guru Padmasambhava, Terton Pema Lingpa, Ani Chorten Zangmo, Lhasey Tsangma and his decedents. According to the oral history, prince Tsangma had two sons; elder brother Thrimi Lhai Wangchuk and younger Chebu Thonglektsen. Elder brother moved to Moen Tawang (La Og Yulsum) upon the invitation made by Dakpa to rule their state, he settled there and people of Tawang claim to be descendent of Thrimi Lhai Wangchuk. On other side Chebu Thonglektsen decided to reside permanently at Tsenkhar Dzong mainly to take care of his father’s properties.  Chebu Thonglektsen had three sons; elder Thriten Pal, younger Gongkar Gyal and Palkye Dar who is said to be twin brothers. Elder brother remained at Tsenkhar which was then main abode of prince Tsangma. Gongkhar Gyal was invited by residents of upper and lower Kholongchu valley (Donglum) to reign their region. The village had a castle built by Gongkar Gyalpo (Ruler of Donglum) and named it as Dongdi Dzong which visibly erects from the confluence of two rivulets, Dongdi Chu and Kholong Chu. Dating back to 9^th century, Dongdi Dzong is considered as one of the oldest Dzongs in Bhutan, even older than Simtokha Dzong.

People of Donglum remained defensive to any external threats until the repeated Tibetan invasions from north scattered inhabitants and weakened their defense power. By the time of Terton Pema Lingpa’s visit to upper and lower Kholongchu valley (Donglum) in 15^th century, people in the region fled and Dongdi Dzong was destroyed beyond repair nonetheless. Terton Pema Lingpa immediately rebuilt the Dzong and then renamed it as Trashi Yangtse Dzong- the fortress of auspicious fortune. It is 4 km aback drive from Trashi Yangtse town and travelers get blessings along the road as it visibly stands aloft perched on steep ridge.

 

The Journey of Prince Tsangma to Bhutan

History of Trashi Yangtse would have no veneration without reference to Tibetan prince Tsangma. He is revered for his great contributions in maintaining the uncut clans and descendants throughout the places he visited. Historically, Tibetan prince Tsangma, grandson of King Thrisong Detsen and the eldest from three sons of King Sadnalegs was a towering figure in the history of Bhutan. After the demise of King Sangnalegs in 815 A.D, his younger son Thri Ralpachen was enthroned anew. Thri Ralpachen on other side could not reign because of chronic illness whereby opportunistic Langdarma overtook the power of his brother and succeeded the throne after subsequent death of his brother Ralpachen. There is no concrete written history about the death of Thri Ralpachen.  According to the most common Tibetan tradition, Ralpachen is said to have murdered by two pro-Bon ministers whose anti-Buddhist brother Langdarma enthroned himself as new king. There are contradictory facts about the death of Langdarma as other account suggests his death as an accidental case on the temple of Maldro. Since then Tibet was under the powerful reign of Langdarma, an anti-Buddhist king who ruled from 836 AD-842 AD. The eldest son Tsangma was a pious figure whom he thrived as monk despite tremors between Buddhist and follower of Bon (native Tibetan religion). He took Buddhist vows and rigorously practiced Buddhism. People say that Bon followers bribed renowned astrologer of the country to foretell that if prince Tsangma were to reside in Tibet, unstoppable disaster would occur in the country. Statement was a form of blasphemy that obliged prince to flee Tibet.  Langdarma strongly driven by evils and as follower of Bon, demolished monasteries, religious institutes, banned Buddhism, and finally banished his brother Tsangma. This split Tibetan’s intact monarchy wherein conflicts arose in between the supporters of Buddhism and Bon tradition. Internal conflict among the imperial family of Tibet gave escalating foundation to the future of Bhutan. It is because of Prince Tsangma who fled Tibet, led many ruling clans and noble descendants and occupied different hamlets throughout Bhutan after 8^th century. There is no concrete consensus about his exile to Bhutan, but Prince became epitome progenitor of five most important local ruling clans and marked the spread of Buddhism in eastern Bhutan. Dialect used by the direct descendants of exiled Tibetan prince Tsangma is known as Tsangla. Tsangla gained its popularity and commonly used by inhabitants of eastern region and the name Sharchop or Sharchopa Kha (dialect spoken by easterner).  His descendent eventually expanded throughout Bhutan along with numerous legacies from which Bhutan’s Royal Family claims to be descendent of exiled Tibetan prince Tsangma.

The book, ‘The Clear Lamp Which Illuminates the History of Royal Clans’ reveals prince Tsangma’s itinerary to Bhutan via Chumbi valley along with five attendants. His sexual engagement with a lady from Namthong Karpo, Paro gave birth to a son. He resumed his traverse towards east through Thimphu and Punakha valleys, then entered Khothagkha and crossed the mountain ranges of Mangdechu. He successively trailed downstream route towards Kheng region and finally ventured Kurichu valley. At Kurichu valley, he could not continue his journey for there was no bridge across the river and obstructed his procession. Prince Tsangma had strong desire to explore more places and thereupon made a wish to help him cross the river. Coincidentally, a tree fell over the river fulfilled his wish and thus, continued travelling towards eastern region through Ngatshang, Waeyung, Halong and then to Jamkhar. He spent some time at Mi-Zimpa now known as Jamkhar and even built a castle as his residence. Since the place was not suitable for him to settle, he moved to La-Og-Yulsum (Arunachal Pradesh). Arunachal Pradesh being adjacent to Tibet and to distance himself from Imperial tremors, he further travelled west and reached Tsenkhar where he decided the place to be favorable for his settlement. Tsenkhar became his chief residential place thereby he visited different places around Trashi Yangtse and spread noble clans.  

 

 

 

Ludlow’s Bhutan Glory

P.C. Dailybhutan.com (Bhutanis Ludlow

)

The pristine Trashi Yangtse is a homestay for many endangered floras and faunas of Bhutan. The place is endowed with affluent species of plants and animals escalating the natural beauty. Ludlow’s Bhutan Swallowtail (Bhutanitis Ludlowi) is no ordinary butterfly in Bhutan and it is one of the country’s principal butterflies. Bhutanese forester first heard the name of the butterfly when specimens of the butterfly were collected by two Italian Botanist, Frank Ludlow and George Sheriff during their brief expedition to eastern Bhutan in 1933-1994. Karma Wangdi, a keen forester working in Ugyen Wangchuck Institute for Conservation and Environment in Bumthang started his mission to search the butterfly in the year 2009. After tiresome years along the ridges of Khulongchu and Bumdeling valley he finally spotted and rediscovered the butterfly somewhere along the shore of Tobrang, remote region at Bumdeling gewog in Trashi Yangtse. The rediscovery was a landmark in the conservation of Bhutan’s wildlife.  In 2011, the joint study was further conducted at Tobrang valley by Ministry of Agriculture and Forest (MoAF), guides and Butterfly Society of Japan (BSJ). Another joint team consisting Bhutanese researchers, NHK crews and several guides conducted the study in the hope of rediscovery. Apart from the research conducted to study its metamorphosis, life cycle and natural habitats, study on the number of butterflies in Tobrang area of Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary have remained unattempted.  

The spectacular creature usually inhabits along the deciduous ridge of cool broad-leaved vegetation and dominantly depends on evergreen perennial plant, Aristolochiaceae. The butterfly thrives in primary forest often in the climatic condition characterized by tropical monsoon and the favorable site is found out to be at an elevation ranging from 2200-2500 m above sea level. Nowadays, it is spotted flying in the month of August especially the toll increases when the temperature is high along the creek of Buyang-Keoncholing and on the farm road towards Gangkhar. Intricately coloured with bright long-rounded forewings and multi-tailed hindwings contribute to the natural beauty of Bhutan. The butterfly has contrasting upper dull black colour and cream-tinted stripes running vertically throughout its wide spread wings. In 2012, this rare butterfly was officially pronounced as the National Butterfly of Bhutan by the Ministry of Agriculture and Forest (MoAF).