Old Trashi Yangtse Fortress
Dongdi Dzong (P.C. DrukTrails) |
Dongdi fortress majestically lies on spur which at its foot flows Dongdichu from the right and Kholongchu from the left. It roughly takes 4 km drive from Yangtse town and at present the fortress serve as chief abode for Trashi Yangtse monastic body. Name of the Dzong is attributable to retaliation made by the people of Donglum against Tibetan armies. Historical account says that the Dzong was built by Gonkar Gyal, grandson of prince Tsangma in 9th century. Gonkar Gyal was invited by people of Donglum to reign their area since the region was in dire need of Hercules ruler. Ever since his reign, the area became harmonious and powerful for subjects in the area thrashed out every external pursuer. Many people underwent insurmountable pains because of constant invasions by Tibetan warriors. The unabated war and the weak defense by people residing towards north Donglum caused citizens to flee the place. Therefore, Dongdi Dzong has remained abandoned and became ruins. However, Terton Pema Lingpa came across the ruins during one of his visits in 15th century and averted the ill-fate of the ruined fortress. He immediately rebuilt the fortress on the same site where ruined Dongdi Dzong stood and thereupon renamed as Trashi Yangtse which means ‘It has sufficient space on steep terrain’. Nonetheless, other historical source has another meaning for Trashi Yangtse which means ‘The fortress of auspicious fortune’.
Little
has been written about the Dzong. An oral narrative by Koenyer (caretaker) has it
that in 17th century, king Jidra surrendered Dzong to Trongsa Poenlop Chogyal Minjur Tempa who was in battle to unite
six eastern regions of Bhutan. Renovation work of old Trashi Yangtse Dzong
commenced in 2001 funded by government and His Holiness 70th Je Khenpo, Trulku Jigme Choeda (Chief
abode of Bhutan’s monastic body) conducted sacred rabney (consecration) ceremony on 23rd March 2005. Fortress
is refurbished with new Kuenra (hall
for religious activities) garlanded by Kuten
and Sungten (sacred images and
scriptures), two Shapkors (monk’s
residential quarter) and Nepoi Phodrang
(Shrine for local deity).
Three-storied
Dongdi Dzong is the chief asset to Trashi Yangtse for it houses many revered nangtens (Inner relic). A statue of
Chenrize (Avalokiteshvara-Buddha of compassion) and hundred volumes of gold
printed Kanjur and Sungten (Sacred scriptures of Buddha) keep the reverence
alight. According to written text by Lam Kezang, former principal of Trashi
Yangtse Institute for Zorig Chusum narrated that a man from Trashigang Udzorong
had accidentally killed one subject of Yangtse chieftain and for the ill-action
he demanded compensation from Udzorong chieftain. They
could not pay compensation instead Yangtse chieftain demanded one hundred
eleven volumes of Kanjur. However, only one hundred volumes of scriptures were
handed over to Yangtse chieftain which is kept in Dzong. The Dzong has Terphur (Treasure dagger), and
Dam Lung (Subduing boulder) which can be seen on the walls of main entrance in
ground floor towards the Dzong. Terton Pema Lingpa subdued evil by throwing a
boulder at the evil in Dongdichu who was said to be harming people.
Tale
of Chugchizhey
The
Dzong consists of a Chugchizhey (Avalokiteshvara)
statue that abound spectacular tales about its existence. While tale narrated
through oral account states that once an old woman lived solitary life in Shali Teng, towards north of Dzong. She
spent her days running errands and carrying out household chores. One day, she
went out to fetch firewood from nearby forest. While she was collecting
firewood, she heard peculiar whispers resonating from afar beside big cypress
tree. She did not give much heed thinking some perverts were doing pranks onto
her. But she heard the same whispers on her way back to home. She felt strange
and haunted for she was alone walking in woods. The woman whatsoever followed
the direction of whispers to have closer look. She discovered the statue of
Chugchizhey (eleven faced compassionate Buddha), Jampelyang (Wisdom Buddha) and
a stupa ditched in logs. The discovery haunted her more and inquisitiveness had
her inquire to herself about who could have kept the assets in woods. To her
surprise Chugchizhey replied, “None brought us here, we all flew from Lhasa.” Old
lady became speechless upon hearing unanticipated response from the statue. Her
pious nature gathered all her guts to bring statues and stupa to her home and had
taken care of those items. Gradually she became rich and the suspiciousness about
her escalating wealth spread all over the village. One day, a landlord peeked
through her window and saw the statues. He immediately snatched the statues and
the woman immediately reported about it to the king. King ordered woman to hand-over
the statues and stupa to the Dzong. Thereafter people well protected the sacred
relic that resulted people to lead peaceful life and wealth grew as never
before. Today a statue of Chenrize is stored in Dongdi Dzong, a statue of
Jampelyang is in Kurtoe Minje and a stupa is at Tarphel in Trashi Yangtse.
Not
only had the statue gained its popularity in Trashi Yangtse but famed
throughout Bhutan. Upon learning the story of statue, Bumthang Dzongpoen (Chieftain)
visited Trashi Yangtse and snatched the statues to be brought in his region. No
sooner did he bring statues in his region then the gruesome weather attacked
whole region, chieftain was bedridden and stuffs on altar were scattered all
over. To ward off evils, the chieftain sought help from Zhabdrung and inquired
about the main cause of such bewildering omen. Zhabdrung said unrecognizable
new assets to have secretly kept on altar thereof chieftain confessed whole
story about the statues. The chieftain instantly returned it to Dongdi Dzong
and was consequently freed from all bad omens.
Years
later, an earthquake severely attacked the Dzong and statue went missing.
Locals started searching the lost statue and finally found in a cave whereby
statue spoke, “I am fine here in the cave”. Locals took back and stored it in the fortress as main relic after the completion of renovation since then.
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