Shakshing Lhakhang

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The wondrous Shakshing Lhakhang (monastery) churns gruesome folklores with mystical tales. The place had its initial name as Samdrup Choling located on paradisiacal valley above Tsenkharla in Trashi Yangtse. The Lhakhang is now accessible by a farm road from Tsenkharla and it takes approximately about one hour to reach the site. The temple owes its existence to Ani (nun) Chorten Zangmo, the great granddaughter of 15^th century Terton (treasure discoverer) Pema Lingpa.

Ani Chorten Zangmo had three residential places viz. Toe (upper) Lhari in Tibet, Bar (middle) Kisa Gomai in Bumthang and Wog (lower) Shakshing in eastern Bhutan. According to the source, she eloped from Tamshing in Bumthang to escape the matrimonial pressure from Choekhor Deb Kuenthub. Before trooping towards her destined place, her grandfather handed over a precious white conch with the advice to blow it to decide her settlement and flourish Peling tradition. She marched towards east crossing Aja (Place with 100 Tibetan letter A), Balam and finally reached at a peak. Upon blowing the conch, it produced soothing sound at a specific peak and later named the peak as Drametse (a peak without enemies). She decided to settle there and built a small monastery with support from local people. Later, she spent her life into diligent meditative practices and spiritual activities.  After residing certain years at Drametse, ani Chorten Zangmo visited her two residents and then came back to at present Shakshing in Trashi Yangtse. Her visit to Shakshing was of paramount blessing for she vanquished evil spirits and subsequently built a small temple which was then named as Samdrup Choling. As no religious figure turned dharma wheel in and around the place except ani Chorten Zangmo. She assumed as head abbot in flourishing Buddhism and blessed the place with many treasures such as oven, holy water, saddle, Guru’s religious hat, foot and hand print, and Buddhist scriptures (Sutra). After having been contributed a lot for the welfare of all sentient beings, at the age of 70, Ani Chorten Zangmo took her final breath and attained nirvana. Her dead body is believed to have taken back and preserved at Drametse. Right after her demise, followers could not give good pastoral care to her properties including temples and nearly fell into complete ruins.

The sacred site remained deserted until lama Ugyen Rangdrol from Kurtoe Nyalam Dung visited Shakshing and he strongly felt the need to restore the monastery.  He immediately sought permission from Jangbu Drungpa (Sub-district administrator of Jangphutse) to restore both the ruined temples of Shakshing and Darchen. Shakshing was believed to be head seat for Ani Chorten Zangmo as winter residence and Darchen as summer residence. The move to restore both the temples (Shakshing and Darchen) did not take much time and were brought back to life that eventually helped to flourish Dharma once again. Lama Ugyen Rangdrol named the site as Shaek-zhing, Sheak means ‘arrived’ and Zhing means ‘Buddhahood’. The name is derived as a tribute to Ani Chorten Zangmo and the legacies left before her last breath at Shakshing. Similarly, lama conducted numerous Dharma activities and continued flourishing Buddha dharma throughout nearby places by giving empowerments, religious talk and blessings. The monastery at present day is under the custodian of Koenyer (caretaker) which has been passed down to subsequent heirs and each custodian contributed in upholding the Dharma and maintaining the fame of monastery. The monastery underwent several renovations and successive custodians undertook structural changes over the time. The relics inside the monastery include a statue of Buddha, Guru Rinpoche, Chenrizi (Compassionate Buddha), Dolma (Tara), Tsepamaed (Long life Buddha) and a set of Terton Ratna Lingpa’s vase. 

To spread Dharma, a new temple was constructed above Shakshing temple that would take 20 minutes by foot from Shakshing Lhakhang and the temple houses huge volumes of old Buddhist scriptures which was brought from Lhasa Darthang, Tibet. Hence, the temple was named as ‘Kanjur’ Lhakhang and lama’s name as Kanjur lama. Currently, the temple is under the care of lama Kelden, heartson of lama Ugyen Rangdrol who is said to have accomplished great Buddhist practices.

Kharchen Dra and Nye Pelritse

 Kharchen Dra

P.C Rinchey Rinchey (Facebook)

A small painting-like place is Guru’s hidden land, supremely located overlooking faces to the hamlet known as Tsaling under Bumdeling gewog in Trashi Yangtse. The village is named after the legend according to which a giant named Sang Gagpa Samdrup, whom upon the arrival from Tibet with a bagful of salt had to share his salt to the people of that nameless village. Surprisingly, he had distributed single salt rock to whole province and thus the name Tsaling, which literally means ‘Salt rock distributed to the people of boundless community’ (Tsa-Salt and Ling-boundless community). The village at present is accessible to motorable road and takes about 30 minutes-drive from Trashi Yangtse town.

P.C. Rinchey Rinchey (Facebook)

To reach Kharchen Dra (cliff), one must travel from Tsaling by foot, pilgrims can encounter a gateway towards Kharchen Dra. The site is instantly recognizable by its entirely unique with precious jewels of concealed treasures. In the most detailed account, the paradisal valley is concealed with treasures in mountains or narrow gorge such as cremation ground Silwatsel, miraculously originated Buddhist drum and white conch, Guru’s meditation cave, shrine of Zambala (God of wealth), hidden treasure of salt, Roo (corpse) Ngedrupchen, Dorji Phagmo’s (Vajravarani in Skt.) cave, remains of scattered brain of vanquished demon, Matamuruta, Guru’s footprint, raven, foot impression of Zambhala, tiger-faced mermaid and longevity vase. Behind Kharchen Dra, towards left lies a shrine which is believed to be the place where deity Hum Kala and his wife resided.  Inside the cave is a secret passage where pilgrims can receive blessings and cleanse sins accumulated by crawling through secret passageway in the cave. Bhutanese strongly believe that crawling through a narrow chamber leave one’s sins behind without an iota of doubt and offers healing experience.

 Nye Pelritse

Set in beautiful ridges, it is Pelritse, an abandoned mute site otherwise is deeply associated to Guru Padmasambhava. The journey towards Pelritse takes two days from Rigsum Goenpa and unlike other sites, Pelritse provides indescribable view from the hill overlooking the base of valley. Rabselphu is a common place for pilgrims to halt night and then the next day, people reach to the site after two day-long uphill climb. Remoteness of the site and treacherous journey along the inhospitable terrains had less attracted the visitors since few decades.  Hidden deep in the folds of snow laden mountains, Pelritse never fails to marvel its existence to visitors resounding every untouched history and unparalleled beauty of fascinating landmarks. Distinct from sightseeing trek, visit to the site itself help desolates regain qualms of conscience and find solace albeit worldly life. A must visit site imbued with significance and power set foot onto the area, allowing pilgrims to receive blessings and attain salvation. From numerous rocks, lakes and cliffs at the site, the trinity lakes, peaks and statues like figure gave birth to the name, Rigsum Goenpa.

Main treasures endowed with spiritual blessings include sacred lakes of Phurpa (Kila in Sanskrit), Phagmo (Chakrasamvara in Skt.), Tsepame (Buddha of countless life), White Dolma (Tara in Skt.), Blue Dolma (Tara in Skt.) and Goenpo Maning (Mahaksla in Skt.). Treasures are in sheer mysticism extend across a whole valley located inside dense forest and the place is the abode of treasures such as Zangdopelri (copper plated mountain), sacred site of twenty-one Dolma (Tara in Skt.) and Guru’s Lhakhang (Temple). The site is also reputed containing the shrines of Namthoesaey (the god of wealth), Tsheringma (Five sisters of long life), and the shrine of Rigsum Goenpa’s deity, Goenyen Phaenbu. Worshipped by all pilgrims, holy place is particularly popular as it holds reputed Neys especially overhanging cliffs of Nima and Dawa (twin cliff).

The holy site may not be like paradise, but it is very close to be called as last Shangri-La, just as the place is powerful and conducive for spiritual development. Spiritual personnel seeking self-transformation, human wellbeing, and happiness is advisable to visit only in sixth and seventh month of lunar calendar considering the difficulties due to harsh forces of heavy snow coverage.

 

Nye Pemaling

P.C. trashiyangtse,gov.bt/institution/pemaling-ney

 Pemaling Nye (sacred site) is the most revered holy site blessed by Guru Padmasambhava in 8^th century. The multi-directionally site besets Pelriphu in east (Part of Singye dzong in Lhuntse), Rinchenling in south (Rigsum goenpa in Bumdeling), Pemaling in the west and Karmaling in the north. 

Pemaling Nye is further categorized into four directions viz. east Samtenling, west Pemaling, south Ugyenling and north Karmaling. It is a three day trek from end of the motorable road at Pamadung, Bumdeling following the banks of Kholongchu, crisscrossing many streams and pilgrims must spend two nights along the way. Pilgrims halt night at Lawog, a herding place for nomads and reach Shingphel the next day. The sacred objects can be spotted along the way from Shingphel till Pemaling. Singphel serves as the summer residence to nomads of Tarphel and it is the gateway towards sacred spot, the hidden bowl of Pemaling.

Guru Rinpoche spent his days meditating in caves at Pemaling areas and have had undergone secret practices concealing numerous treasures. Footprints, finger prints, and secret religious objects of iconic religious figures of past are commonly found treasures in the region. There are many treasures and relics in the area, although all are concealed  that include treasure of Tsepame (Buddha of countless life), Guru’s treasure box, Guru’s hat, his walking staff and throne, lake of goddess Tara, Body imprints of Goddess Tara, Elephant’s head, feast offering bowl of Dakini, tortoise, gateway towards future sacred sites, face of Yamraj (Lord of death), thumb impression of Guru, feast offering place of great merchant Norbu Zangpo, hand impression of Dakinis, foot imprints of Guru, skull, cremation ground, passage way for religious text (Sutra), altar, Phurpa (religious instrument), hidden treasure of Pemaling temple, 108 stupas, longevity vase,  white conch, shrine of compassionate Buddha (Chenrize), holy water of Dorji Phamo (Vajravahari in Skt.), and many more.

Further, the site endowed  with mysterious and inexplicable features of Guru Rinpoche offers overarching picturesque over the lakes and mountains. The spot also provides exquisite view with masses of mighty snowcapped mountains endowed with spectacular meadow enclosed by numerous lakes. 

It is located at around 4500 m elevation covered by lush alpine vegetation and many medicinal herbs are spotted there. According to elderly, there are numerous lakes sanctified by Guru Rinpoche and believed to be under the guidance of sacred Lhatsho (divine lake). Neyig (Letter about sacred site) revealed that among many Lhatshos, Pel Dechog Khorlo Lhatsho (Charasamvara in Skt.) swiftly drains to an outlet of Kholong Chhu and thus, derived its name as Khorlo Chhu. However, the name lost its original tune and people subsequently misinterpreted as Kholong Chhu.

The site over the years turned blind spot to many people across the country. Visitors must depend on local people as porter due to poor condition of walking trails, inadequate shelter, and remoteness of the site resulted to attract less visitors. Those challenges have now become minimal since Trashi Yangtse Dzongkhag spearheaded enough effort to make the trek adventurous as well as easily accessible. Monks from different levels of society visit the site during autumn season undergo short retreat and few pilgrims also visit the site. In summation, the site is no different to pure land of Guru Padmasambhava’s Glorious Copper-Coloured Mountain and visitors stepping their foot /feet on such highly blessed site is said to accumulate umpteen amount of merits. 

Education at a glance in Bhutan: Education during the pandemic

 

The last 60 years have seen tremendous breakthrough in provision of education to all in Bhutan. Bhutan faced huge challenge when the country experienced first COVID-19 case on 5^th March 2020. Thereafter Bhutan started experiencing plethora of uneven crisis since schools, entertainment and business centers remained shut. Education system and student’s learning is likewise upended with no end in sight by the unrelenting global pandemic. The unending threat has necessitated education ministry to ramp up capacity to address teaching learning disruption caused by the pandemic. Online education in Bhutanese schools has remained almost, a Black Box over the decades until the implementation of Moodle-based online learning system known as Virtual Learning Environment (VLE) in 2011 by colleges under Royal University of Bhutan. But it went on striking the blind spot of education system as education in Bhutan was yet to experience the long unwalked journey towards digitalized teaching and learning. It was not up until 2020 when the whole educational ecosystem was disrupted by the global pandemic. Closure of schools has not only allowed digital transformation but infusion of new teaching-learning modality into Bhutanese education system. As brick and mortar classrooms have shifted to virtual classroom, online teaching in Bhutan has gone far from emergency novelty to a ubiquitous teaching learning tools right from day one of the school closure.

Education during the school closure

Had Bhutan not experienced the pandemic, new chapter in education system would not have unfurled. Indeed it provided green signal and came as a wakeup call particularly to education fraternity to rethink education in more than one way. Accordingly, education ministry in collaboration with relevant stakeholders started spearheading number of preparations and tangible initiatives in the short time available. Activities include Education in Emergency, a comprehensive guideline for schools and teachers to maintain the continuum of education in new conditions. Gradually, a group of teachers voluntarily started broadcasting video lesson through BBS channel 2 popularly known as Bhutan E-Learning Project. Hence E-learning and online teaching has increasingly become revolutionary system in schools across the country. Teachers on the other hand found niche to conduct mobile teaching and home visit ensuring that every students get equal opportunity to education during the pandemic. The Ministry of Education developed Self-Instructional Material (SIM) and distributed to students who do not have access to television, smart phone and internet.

New normal education

Schools across the nation geared up for new normal education, ensuring all precautionary measures in school campus to stop the spread of COVID-19. Classes X and XII students rejoined school on 1^st July but then the normal flow was once again interrupted due to nationwide lockdown. However, schools in Bhutan reopened on 14^th September and a week later, classes IX and XI resumed face-to-face teaching. Classes IX to XII started applying prioritized curriculum, a well sort out curriculum comprising key knowledge, skills, strategies, methods and procedures. Adapted curriculum, theme-based curriculum was applied for classes PP to VIII. In addition to the provision of curriculum book, schools with Special Educational Needs program and special schools received both prioritized and adapted curriculum to support learning for students with disability. Although schools at present are on full swing with face-to-face teaching and classes PP-VIII undergo blended teaching and learning, the certainty of all those measures are not sustainable in long-term.

Academic reforms

End-of-year examinations for classes PP-VIII have been cancelled and their transition will depend on the assessment records maintained by teachers so far. The most important adjustment, is that the academic year for classes IX-XII is extended till the end of March, 2021.

 

Disclaimer: The information shared and views expressed by the author is intended to provide general understanding on the education during the pandemic.

Omba Nye: Taktsang of East

The great lotus born is an unforgettable figure who propagated and founded Tibetan Buddhism; Vajrayana Buddhism in Bhutan. Guru Rinpoche’s deeds are vastly profound that left many lasting impressions. One is during 8^th century, when King Sindhu Raja of Bumthang invited Guru Rinpoche to visit Bhutan. Buddhism thereafter flourished to every far flung places of the country and the blessed places are considered to be the manifestation of Guru's body, speech, mind, wisdom and secret activities.

Omba is one untouched sacred site of Guru Rinpoche from many holy sites  because of the district’s remoteness. It is located towards northern Trashi Yangtse and takes two hours uphill climb from Kheni or there is another two hours route from Tsangphuchen. The mansion is magnificently pinnacled on rocky cliff giving similar view and uncanny resemblance to Paro Taktsang and people often call it as Taktsang of east. Omba Nye derives its name from letter ‘Om’, an inscription on holy stone surface before getting into the main holy site and believed to have more than hundred inscriptions on the same rock. Omba was initially discovered as sacred holy site of Guru Padmasambhava by Guru Choewang from Kurtoe Ngalamdung. Although no existing details are prevalent about the sacred site, local people believe that Guru Rinpoche blessed the site after his visit to Gomphu Kora and Gongza. Dating back to the oral history, Omba Nye is the epithet of body, Aja in Mongar for speech, Hungrel in Paro Hung for mind, Khenpajong for wisdom and Singye Dzong for secret activities. History has it say that Guru Rinpoche visited the site as per the prophecy and merely following his visions to subdue a snake demon, Phurba Tashi who then said to have tormented community of people. With all his wits, Guru furiously rode on a pony and subdued a demon. Guru Rinpoche meditated for two months in a cave at Om Bha and then headed to Aja Nye in Mongar. At the site, Guru Rinpoche concealed many treasures with the hope to flourish his doctrine and benefit future people. Omba is punctuated with treasures viz. imprints of stupas on the rocks, Guru’s treasure box, Rinchen Terzoed (sacred holy book), Guru’s walking staff and many more Neys are said to have remained unexplored because of scant information and also due to misplacement of Ney Yig. Annually, sacred site attracts hundreds of pilgrims and tourists. People visiting the site have profound advantage to cleanse sins and accumulate countless merits.

Ney Chen Rigsum Goenpa

 

 View of Rigsum Goenpa (PC: Tashi Yangtse Bumdelling Rigsum Gonpa Goenzin Dratshang)

Rigsum monastery is picturesquely perched on an idyllic peak at an altitude of about 2,500-3,000 meters above sea level. Journey towards monastery takes about three hours along the mountain trail from Dungzam, nearest Bumdeling road point. The trail is broad, trekkers would need to cross many creeks, and encounter slender bamboo shoot along the way towards monastery. The monastery is revered for its exquisite murals of Zaedja Pagsam Thishing (history of 108 lord Buddha) which is preserved at Lhakhang Wogma (lower monastery), artifacts and sacred history. The views from the monastery is spectacular whereby one would see other Himalayan mountain ranges afar.

According to the written history by lam Kezang Chhophel (former principal of Rigney Institute, Trashi Yangtse), the monastery was initially built by lama Tshering Gyamtsho in 18^th century. Lama Tshering Gyamtsho was close disciple of 9^th Je Khenpo Sacha Rinchhen who was prophesized to explore sacred site of Guru Rinpoche. He spent three months meditating in a cave where now Rinchengang Lhakhang exists near Yangtse Dzong. In his vision, Yongla deities and Ge-Nyen advised Lama to venture to Pemaling. He arrived at Pemaling located at northeast Trashi Yangtse and there his eye was caught by the odd figures near the cave at present Rigsum Goenpa. The place had trinity imprints so-called Rigsum Goenpo which means ‘Lords of the Three Families’ and refers to enlightened deity of Manjushri, Vajrapani and Avalokiteshvara. Lama coaxed the guardian deity of the cave, Goenyen Phaenbu and later built a small hermitage.

Rigsum Goenpa Lama

The monastery was succeeded by his nephew, lama Jangchub Gyeltshen soon after the death of Lama Tshering Gyamtsho. Lama Jangchub Gyeltshen renovated and extended the Lhakhang Wogma (lower monastery) with mural paintings all over the wall. He played vital role in taking care of the monastery and spreading Buddhism until his last breath. The monastery was then under the charge of Lama Ngawang Loday, nephew of Lama Jangchub Gyeltshen. Later lama Ngawang Loday was ordained as 3^rd abbot of Rigsum goenpa by His Holiness Yonten Thaye, the 13^th Je Khenpo who was en route to Tsari Rongkor (mountain pilgrimage) in Arunachal Pradesh, India. Lama further extended the monastery, brought the Jowo Shakya Muni (Buddha as prince) statues from Punakha Dzong, installed sacred artifacts, hundred volumes of Buddhist scriptures and eight enlightening stupas of lord Buddha. Jowo statue is the replica of the one in Lhasa, in Tibet sculptured by renowned Nepalese sculptor named Lhazo Pentsa.  It is said that the 5^th abbot, Lama Shacha Gyalpo witnessed the statue speak and thereafter originated its name as Jowo Sung-Joen (Jowo that spoke). The monastery was renovated in 2004 affiliated by Royal Government of Bhutan and instituted traditional religious school catering about 50 monks. 

Chorten Kora

 

PC: Trashi Yangtse (Facebook page)

Chorten meaning an object of worship said to have built during the time of Buddha in 2500 years ago. Different chortens were built along the haunted places particularly to subjugate malevolent forces, expand well beings or as part of funeral rites. Those figures have played great importance to flourish Buddhism and align people with sublime harmony of nature.

The beautiful white pearl known as Chorten kora situated below Trashi Yangtse town adjacent to the confluence of swift flowing Khulongchu plays an instrumental role in the district’s history. An archetypical stupa gives indefinable physical landscapes that has differing feature from the commonest structures of ordinary chortens in Bhutan. Multitude of spiritual festivals of eastern region are performed at the pristine site during auspicious days led by highly learned Buddhist masters. As graceful as the place garlanded by beatific lane around and exquisite sound from meandering Khulongchu gives overall sense of ephemeral enlightenment. Journey from Trashigang towards Chorten kora takes about two-hour drive and pilgrims cross yet another revered site, Gomphu kora (sacred holy site of Guru Rinpoche) en route to Trashi Yangtse.

The pristine stupa is associated to 4^th Rigsum Goenpa (monastery) lama, lam Ngawang Loday. He constructed a replica of Nepalese Bodhanath stupa in memory of his late uncle lama Jangchub Gyeltshen. The place where the stupa stands at present day was engulfed by demons and many people lost their lives. Local people requested Rigsum lama to pacify all malevolent forces. The stupa was then constructed corresponding to the request made by people after he returned from Nepal.

According to the written history by lam Kezang, former principal of Zorig Chugsum in Trashi Yangtse, lama Ngawang Loday along with his close friend lama Zangpo from Tawang (Arunachal Pradesh) toured Nepal. They experienced blissful moment and was awe-inspired upon visiting the prominent Bodhanath stupa popularly known as Jarungkhashor (Jarung ‘can be done’, Khashor ‘agreed’ in Tibetan language). They decided to build similar stupa in their respective region and returned with a model of stupa carved on a radish respectively.  As committed lama Ngawang Loday chose to construct a stupa at Trashi Yangtse hamlet near Khulongchu because the site was believed to be a common hibernating place for demons. The construction of stupa was helped by his close disciples and devotees from eastern region which took about 12 years to complete the work. He named it as Deurong chorten which literally means Due ‘demon’ and rong ‘creek’ in Dzala kha. However, with the gradual passage of time, the site has now gained its popularity as chorten kora.

History has it say that later people had tough time mounting stone pinnacle onto the stupa. Lama Shacha Gyalpo from Punakha, one of the highly learned lamas of Rigsum Goenpa came to the rescue and within no time he placed the pinnacle on top of the stupa. Another similar amazing incident happened when people were left with no choice but to seek help from Lama Sacha Gyalpo to bring down the pinnacle for renovation work. Lama Sacha Gyalpo performed secret rituals and the stone pinnacle was automatically brought down at night. The natural stone carved pinnacle is still visible near the stupa.

Chorten kora though represent revered Nepalese Bodhanath stupa, lama could not construct same chorten of Bodhanath because the radish underwent physical changes. The actual structure was tarnished owing to lama’s prolonged return trip. Therefore, the stupa still exists in its indigenous form which people hold with high regard. The stupa was consecrated by His Holiness Je Yonten Thaye during his second trip to Trashi Yangtse. Thereafter, evils living in that hamlet were vanquished and subsequently people in the community had harmonious life. At the same time, lama Zangpo constructed another stupa at Pangchanang hamlet in Tawang and the stupa was named as Gorzam chorten.  

While the construction of chorten reached at dome, a pious eight years old dakini (witch) is believed to have sacrificed her life to help all beings alleviate pains and she voluntarily entombed into the stupa along with an ox. Every year, people of Tawang frequent to Trashi Yangtse on 15^th day of first lunar month to pay gratitude to their lady and the festival is known as Dakpa kora. Local people say that on auspicious days, fortunate hear a mooing sound if listened carefully through small openings. As per oral narratives, demons are believed to be living in an overhanging cliff at the banks of Khulongchu just opposite to Chorten. They even tried to bring chorten under their kingdom but a pair of furious Buddha’s eyes facing towards the cliff and the sacredness of the chorten suppressed their act. That is why one can still see the cupola being inclined towards the direction of cliff.

The stupa underwent refurbishment which was supported by Royal Government of Bhutan. Visitors may now witness new sertog (golden cupola), stone-slab roof, enclosure and prayer wheels around which was initiated by Dzongkhag administration of Trashi Yangtse. People who could not visit Bodhanath stupa in Nepal can visit Chorten kora to receive blessings and have a glimpse of it.

Urka Bangla-Yangtsepa Chili

 

Bhutanese have undying affair with chili despite the fact that chilies are spicy in nature. Every cuisine will have invariable amounts of chili as chili forms the main recipe to most Bhutanese meals, without which the dish becomes incomplete. In olden days when there was no heating appliances like we have at present days, eating spicy dishes especially the chili helped people to keep themselves warm during the cold weather. Since the culture of eating chili is predominant in Bhutanese diet, children at young age are trained to eat spicy food.  

Trashi Yangtse district celebrates uniqueness by preserving its sacred culture and traditions. Even though it is nestled in far flung corner of the country, its culture has definitely remained unaffected from any external influence. The tiny district has a flair for Urka Bangala (Yangtsepa chili), traditional chili variety specific to Yangtse. Fleshly green or red chili is found in upper part of Yangtse; Bumdeling and Womanang village. The chili got its name as ‘Urka’ after resembling the shape of a horse bag (tsampa). 

It has a shape similar to capsicum and almost gives pungent taste with moderate hotness. Urka Bangala is larger in size and is considered as one of the most unique species of chilies in Bhutan as it is not grown any where else in the country. The other species of chili generally grown in Yangtse is termed as Yangtsepa ema but the Urka Bangala is known as real Yangtsepa ema.

People nowadays cultivate Urka Bangala at large scale and has become one primary cash crop unlike past days. Urka Bangala is popularly cultivated in the villages of Womanang and part of Bumdeling. Its growing season starts from pre-monsoon and lasts till the end of autumn.

During peak season the local markets are flooded with wide range of Urka Bangala in different shapes, sizes and colors. The per kg market price for green Urka costs nu.60-70, red Urka costs around nu.70-100 and during the off season, dried Urka costs around nu.1500-2000. 

As eating chilies are well rooted in Bhutanese culture, Urka Bangala is a good staple for chili cheese stew widely known as Ema Datshi, national dish of Bhutan. To further preserve the product, Urka Bangala Production Group was formed by locals in 2018 supported by Dzongkhag Agriculture Office and the group generated hefty amount of income. 

Tsenkharla Dzong

 Ruins of Tsenkhar Dzong 

Historical Account about Jamkhar

 Why Jamkhar?

View of Jamkhar village (PC: Karma T Rinzin)

Jamkhar is a rapidly developing village and stands out as one separate Gewog from eight Gewogs in Trashi Yangtse. Situated on a sloppy ridge, it is 8km drive from the Trashi Yangtse-Trashigang highway. Farming is the main source of livelihood to majority of inhabitants and Jamkhar people especially women are known for weaving Bura (silk) fabrics which are said to be much prized art. Combined with legend, yet the origin of place’s name has had remained unknown even too many people.  

Helmsman and few living grandparents of Jamkhar narrates an old-age account on the origin of name, ‘Jamkhar’. A brave person named Kochi (tax collector) was living at Dungro at foot of Jamkhar village. One day, Tibetan prince Lhasey Tsangma traveled from western (Paro) towards eastern Bhutan (Trashigang) and finally upon his arrival at nameless village, a group of people received him. People in that place were in dire need of king to lead them and more so, the hamlet was neither exposed to Buddhism nor had religious abbot. Since prince Tsangma appeared to be physically appealing, people requested him to be their king. He accepted their plea but with one condition, to build a Khar (fortress) as his residence. To his response people replied, “Jam la” (it is easy) and with great ease people had built a house for Tibetan prince and eventually the place got its name as ‘Jamkhar’ which literally means Jam- ‘easy’ and Khar- ‘fortress’ in Tshangla. Within no time a fortress was built with immense ease, although the work was laborious. After prince assumed as their king, he ruled with justice and compassion, and upheld the principle of Buddhism. It is said that the village and the people living under his reign prospered like never before. 

Pudendum of Legendary Nangkhar Ama

 Baga of Nangkhar Ama

Bhutan’s rich oral tradition had always thrived albeit indelible pursuits from trajectory of modern evolution. In fact, oral history had played an instrumental role in cascading intriguing tales and unraveling series of folklore. Even a tree or rock rattles serenading varied versions of tales which people believe as an unforgiving dogma. On other hand such traditions are often deemed as sheer Bhutanese myth.

Travelers would embark strange natural objects or make unbelievable discoveries while traversing into adventurous places in Bhutan. Amid enchanting journey towards Trashi Yangtse, a clear fissure on the cliff across Drangme chu at Jamkhar is what fascinates passerby. The cliff opposite to Jamkhar village has a crack resembling female pudendum and is associated to Nangkhar Ama’s pudendum. Intimidating versions of tales about the cliff still maneuvers the folks residing nearby but none ascertained on the authenticity of the existing tales.

One account of tale narrates, Nangkhar Ama who resided in Nangkhar village was believed to be only beautiful woman in the region with charming feminist. She possessed secret elixir and anyone seeing her would instantly fill with a passionate lust. Although she was married to one of the wealthy men in the area called Nangkhar Khochi, her greed towards materialistic accumulation enslaved her to entangle in an extra matrimonial affair with Dungro Khochi. He is another wealthy man from neighboring village, Dungro which is just above the Jamkhardrang Bailey Bridge sited at Trashigang-Trashi Yangtse border.  Dungro Khochi was lust driven man. He would not dare disposing his valuable assets to lure women and even believed to have affairs with multitude of women.

Nangkhar Ama coincidentally met with Dungro Khochi who were both desperate into wealth and lust. Over time, their love grew stronger and frequent meetings has become a regular chore. Avoiding public gaze, they secretly met inside the nearby cave of Maentsanlung which lies opposite to Nangkhar village.  The cave displays the scene where the lady of Nangkhar received her ornaments and Dungro Khochi have his lust satisfied. Nangkhar Khochi felt suspicious seeing those expensive ornaments after years of his wife’s extra marital affair with Dungro Khochi. Nangkhar Khochi was displeased hearing the news and both Khochis prepared to fight for Nangkhar Ama since none could sacrifice Nangkhar Ama. The inevitable battle would eventually be disastrous to both the villages and to avert the possible wars, Nangkhar Ama was brave enough to decide not to malign herself the root cause of battle. Therefore, she removed her pudendum; the root cause of conflict and hurled it across the mighty Drangmechu. The flying pudendum landed on the cliff with big ‘Thud!’ to opposite side of swift flowing river bank. The cliff bore an impression of Nangkhar Ama’s pudendum since then. Her bravery sparked off the possible war between two Khochis which would otherwise have brought excruciating sufferings to whole village.  Nowadays people still stereotype the legend and widely misinterpreted the indigenous folklore. With the onset of monsoon season, water trickles down the vaginal opening and legends jokingly share that during that time the women of Jamkhar become unfaithful to their husband for material gains or become easy to lure. However, it is perhaps be apt to mention that there is no ordinary history recorded on such incident and the pranks continues at present day.

There is another oral account, during the time where numerous battles were raging among the giants of Tibet and Bhutan mainly competing their physical strength and intellectual capacity.  Legends has it that Tibetan giant had sent a sack of wheat to count by Bhutanese giant. Bhutanese giant completed the challenge after taking painstaking hours of time. Bhutanese giant in response sent a sack of buckwheat to count but the Tibetan giant failed to count thereupon lost to Bhutanese giant. Tibetan giant could no longer resist the defeat, so he sent coiled sheep horn to be uncoiled and make it straight. Bhutanese giant was perhaps happy and easily straightened after boiling the horn in hot water for prolonged time. In return the Bhutanese giant sent coiled guard to uncoil by Tibetan giant. Despite his repeated attempts the gourd broke into pieces and again had to accept miserable defeat. The Tibetan giant was really frustrated by several defeats and made a call for physical challenge. Accepting the challenge, Bhutanese giant invited Tibetan giant to visit Bhutan. His itinerary in the journey to Bhutan included to travel via Khamdang to Jamkhar direction. Tibetan giant requested a reception to be prepared accordingly to his itinerary. Khamdang Ama was supposed to prepare arrangements but she failed to do her duty. Frustrated Tibetan giant uprooted all the trees in Khamdang area and owing to that reason, Khamdang region is still barren at present days.

Next subsequent reception was to be prepared at Jamkhar by Nangkhar Ama but she too refused the task instead she was taking shower while Tibetan giant reached Jamkhar. He furiously rushed towards Nangkhar Ama upon seeing not a single reception made on the way and ripped out her pudendum. The pudendum was then flung it across the river and landed on the rock symbolizing Nangkhar Ama’s disrespectful act to the giant.

The pudendum cliff served as clock tower to the people of Jamkhar especially Nangkhar before the advent of watch or clock. If there is a shadow dawned on the pudendum cliff, workers disperse for lunch break. People prank with casual statement that if the sun directly beams on the pudendum means time for lunch break.